18 Jul, 2018

Deconstructing the Anatomy of Your Suit

18 Jul, 2018

True artistry is the heart of every garment. A suit can look deceptively simple, but it is the complex creation which defines a signature handmade bespoke suit. Maintain a well – dressed aesthetic look throughout the year by choosing the correct garment with the right construction, colour and fabric.

To give a better understanding of the structure of a suit, I have put together an amalgamation of all the elements which would give you a quintessential garment suiting your personal taste. Each suit is sewn by hand with each element focused on providing extreme flexibility and range of motion in the finished garment.

The birth of a suit begins with the lapel. The lapel is what defines the entire look of the ensemble, due to the sharpness and the shape it gives to the look. Lapels are of three – types: a notch lapel, a peak lapel and a shawl lapel. A peak lapel is a standard fit for a double-breasted suit and swings towards a more formal look. While adorning a peak lapel, it distinguishes you from the rest and creates understated elegance. Whereas, the notch lapel is tailored for the single-breasted suit. Right from the minds of the bespoke consultants, a notch lapel symbolizes a democratic environment and is suitable for a business suit. The shawl lapel is the epitome of the triangle of lapels as it is crafted for formal attire such as a classic tuxedo and an open dinner jacket. The size of the lapel complements the shape as it is all about proportions. The slimmer fit will always sport a thinner lapel, while the more classic fit will focus on a wider lapel.

Moving ahead, the lapel hole, which is also referred to as “the flower hole” is a key detail in the structure of the garment. The thread-work carried out by the artists is so intricate, that the threads are virtually invisible. The story behind the hole is to add an ‘oomph’ factor by adding decorative details to classic silhouettes. The sleeve head is crafted out of canvas, which is sewn between the sleeve and the shoulder to give the top of the sleeve a crisp shape.

In order to take care of the body types, at SS HOMME, we focus on various body types and cut the silhouette according to the variation in the body. To achieve the best aesthetic, the silhouette is trim and well cut by our team. The canvas takes care of the marriage of all the elements of the jacket and ensures a strict shape to the garment, which in turn highlights the other parts on the piece.

At SS HOMME, the collars are handmade by the team in a variety of choices available at the store. The idea is to leave a gap between the collar and the shirt and not completely hide it.

The shoulder of the suit can be either unstructured or structured. As the name suggests, the unstructured shoulder is less padded and can be used more for a semi-formal look and the structured is sharper. It can be used for formal looks.

Pockets can make or break your look and a well tailored pocket with a little extra space is predominantly versatile. In order to create a perfect garment, there are three types of pockets – Jet, welt or flap pockets. The jet pocket is the narrowest sewn pocket and ideal for formal wear. The flap pockets have an extra space and can be used for formal wear as well. The conventional idea of a pocket is the welt pocket, which is used for displaying the pocket square.

If you need a more natural fit on the garment, quality construction is assured by the double-vents. Single-vents are the most widely used style and are found more in ready-to-wear and business suits.

While going into the details of your suit, there are various essentials you cannot ignore, which are, the cuffs, the lining, the types of buttons and the sleeve. They are basically the “enhancers” in the garment. The cuffs can be functional or non–functional. The basic difference is buttoning, one can be unbuttoned and the other cannot. The lining is of prime concern as that measures the breathability of the garment.

The fully lined garments maintain shape exceptionally well, but are less breathable. Half–lined jackets is what you need if you want to maintain a balance between breathability and shape. In terms of extreme breathability, the unlined suit can make man extremely dapper for warmer climates.

In terms of buttons for the jacket, always button the first button and leave the other unbuttoned. When we speak of buttons on the cuffs, it is the arrangement which matters and how one wants the buttons to be spaced out according to their personal style. The sleeve of the jacket should be the slimmest possible in order to allow a wider range of motion. The thicker the sleeve, the more difficult it is to move.

Trousers hold the suit together and to ensure the complete fit, we cannot ignore the way the trousers fall. For the prerequisite formal look, it begins with the trouser seat and rise. This is completely dependent on where your trousers will sit and the fit that you demand. Other elements such as the waistband, the belt loops and trouser crease will ensure a comfortable fit all day.


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